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Midwinter Daydream: A Farmer’s Ecstatic Ode to Spring Greens

A version of this story first appeared in Edible Idaho magazine. Illustrations by Felicia Weston, text by Casey O'Leary.

 

In the depths of the icy armpit of winter, staring down the barrel of at least another month of monochromatic tundra, my spirits had plummeted. Winter was trying to kill me. I fetched another hearty helping of cheesy mashed potatoes, threw another log on the fire, and plopped down on the couch.  Dozing off in a starchy haze, my thoughts slipped to warmer weather. The snow had melted, and suddenly it was spring in my greenhouse. I blinked hard against the brilliant colors, my mouth slipping into uncontrollable salivation.

 

“Greeeeeeeeens!” I roared. But where to start?

 

Deep green mizspoona, tender tatsoi, fiery red giant mustards and emerald green chickweed exploding out of every bare patch of soil left this squash-stuffed gal nearly paralyzed with titillation. The sweltering heat and humidity didn’t hurt either. I bent and broke off a finely-dissected ruby streaks mustard. As I chomped down, the pungent wasabi poured through my sinuses.

 

“YESSSSSSS!” I screamed to the bok choy.

 

The thrill of seasonal eating peaks in moments like these. Every cell in my body moaned with deep, demanding hunger. I threw off my hat and outer coat, sloughing off layers of clothing in ecstatic haste as the sun seared through the plastic of the greenhouse. Plants pulled upward, straining against gravity, cells multiplying and unfurling. Across kingdoms our bodies had built Vitamin D from the sunshine, stretching awake once more.

 

I dropped to my knees and crawled like a goat through the rows, gobbling bite after bite of fresh new leaves. The diversity was astounding--buttery lettuces, salty orach, bitter endives, sweet mizspoona, spicy mustards, oniony chives and supple, tender green garlic. I greeted each one like a long-lost friend.

 

"Lovage! How I've missed you! Like soup in a leaf you are, Ol’ Chap!"

 

" Chervil! You licorice rascal! Masquerading as parsley, you stinker!"

 

"Ooh! Parsley! Yesssssssss!"

 

One by one, they scoured my starch-drenched insides. The more I ate, the more my body demanded.

 

A fist full of arugula in one hand and mizuna in the other, I glanced back at the carnage I'd left behind. Even the hungriest deer couldn't touch what I just accomplished. My stomach churned like a rumen as I munched the last mouthful.

 

Far off at first, a clanking, screeching sound roars closer. My eyes shot open as the snowplow blazed past my house. My scarf was choking me. I looked out the window to see flakes of snow just starting to fall again.

 

Ugh, I sigh, the lemony taste of sorrel still lingering on my tongue. Winter isn't trying to kill me. It's filling the mountain lakes and rivers with snow to provide irrigation water for our gardens next summer. It's breaking insect and disease cycles and giving me a much-needed rest. I grumble a thank you to the clouds and the cold and threw another log on the fire.

 

 

Casey's favorite spring greens—an abridged list:

 

Arugula--Spicy-nutty, fast-growing, with just the right amount of bitterness

Chervil--Delicate, anise-like flavor, extremely winter hardy, excellent in salad mixes

Chives--Wonderful snipped fresh onto potatoes and egg salad. Flowers have superb, delicate flavor. I love to tempura them.

Cilantro--Easiest to grow fall through spring (unfortunately). Wonderful in Thai and Mexican dishes.

Dandelion--Ubiquitous and free! Bitter--makes a great tea; flowers make good ale. Not to be confused with Italian dandelion (like Red Rib), which is actually a chicory. 

Cress--Particularly Wrinkled Crinkled Crumpled, a Frank Morton variety with a wonderful herbal-spice flavor and super dainty leaves

Garlic Chives--Chives and garlic in one--brilliant!

Lovage--The tough-as-nails alternative to celery--perennial and one of the first things to come up in spring. Strong celery flavor works well in soups and stirfries. Dry in season to enjoy it year-round!

Kale--Spring boasts exceptionally sweet and tender kale leaves on overwintered plants, as well as broccoli-like florets and yummy edible flowers

Mache--If a peanut and a green had a baby, mache would be it. Super winter-hardy and nutty as all get out!

Mizspoona--A superb cross between Tatsoi and Mizuna, with thick, mild, sweet leaves; excellent raw and cooked.

Mustard Greens--Spicy like wasabi. Make excellent addition to salad mixes, especially when paired with a sweet dressing. Also works well as a sushi wrap.

Parsley--Excellent in vinaigrettes and to brighten starchy dishes.

Purple Orach a.k.a. Mountain Spinach--Thick, deep purple leaves have a mildly salty taste and are exceptional in salad mixes as well as cooked like spinach.

Sorrel--Perennial. Lemony flavor, excellent in potato-leek soup. Makes good cocktails.

Spinach--At its sweetest in the spring. Wonderful raw or cooked.

Swiss Chard--rainbow stems on huge, nutrient-packed leaves that don't bolt all summer!

Tarragon--Perennial. Absolutely divine in egg scrambles.

Midwinter Daydream: A Farmer’s Ecstatic Ode to Spring Greens

A version of this story first appeared in Edible Idaho magazine. Illustrations by Felicia Weston, text by Casey O'Leary.

 

In the depths of the icy armpit of winter, staring down the barrel of at least another month of monochromatic tundra, my spirits had plummeted. Winter was trying to kill me. I fetched another hearty helping of cheesy mashed potatoes, threw another log on the fire, and plopped down on the couch.  Dozing off in a starchy haze, my thoughts slipped to warmer weather. The snow had melted, and suddenly it was spring in my greenhouse. I blinked hard against the brilliant colors, my mouth slipping into uncontrollable salivation.

 

“Greeeeeeeeens!” I roared. But where to start?

 

Deep green mizspoona, tender tatsoi, fiery red giant mustards and emerald green chickweed exploding out of every bare patch of soil left this squash-stuffed gal nearly paralyzed with titillation. The sweltering heat and humidity didn’t hurt either. I bent and broke off a finely-dissected ruby streaks mustard. As I chomped down, the pungent wasabi poured through my sinuses.

 

“YESSSSSSS!” I screamed to the bok choy.

 

The thrill of seasonal eating peaks in moments like these. Every cell in my body moaned with deep, demanding hunger. I threw off my hat and outer coat, sloughing off layers of clothing in ecstatic haste as the sun seared through the plastic of the greenhouse. Plants pulled upward, straining against gravity, cells multiplying and unfurling. Across kingdoms our bodies had built Vitamin D from the sunshine, stretching awake once more.

 

I dropped to my knees and crawled like a goat through the rows, gobbling bite after bite of fresh new leaves. The diversity was astounding--buttery lettuces, salty orach, bitter endives, sweet mizspoona, spicy mustards, oniony chives and supple, tender green garlic. I greeted each one like a long-lost friend.

 

"Lovage! How I've missed you! Like soup in a leaf you are, Ol’ Chap!"

 

" Chervil! You licorice rascal! Masquerading as parsley, you stinker!"

 

"Ooh! Parsley! Yesssssssss!"

 

One by one, they scoured my starch-drenched insides. The more I ate, the more my body demanded.

 

A fist full of arugula in one hand and mizuna in the other, I glanced back at the carnage I'd left behind. Even the hungriest deer couldn't touch what I just accomplished. My stomach churned like a rumen as I munched the last mouthful.

 

Far off at first, a clanking, screeching sound roars closer. My eyes shot open as the snowplow blazed past my house. My scarf was choking me. I looked out the window to see flakes of snow just starting to fall again.

 

Ugh, I sigh, the lemony taste of sorrel still lingering on my tongue. Winter isn't trying to kill me. It's filling the mountain lakes and rivers with snow to provide irrigation water for our gardens next summer. It's breaking insect and disease cycles and giving me a much-needed rest. I grumble a thank you to the clouds and the cold and threw another log on the fire.

 

 

Casey's favorite spring greens—an abridged list:

 

Arugula--Spicy-nutty, fast-growing, with just the right amount of bitterness

Chervil--Delicate, anise-like flavor, extremely winter hardy, excellent in salad mixes

Chives--Wonderful snipped fresh onto potatoes and egg salad. Flowers have superb, delicate flavor. I love to tempura them.

Cilantro--Easiest to grow fall through spring (unfortunately). Wonderful in Thai and Mexican dishes.

Dandelion--Ubiquitous and free! Bitter--makes a great tea; flowers make good ale. Not to be confused with Italian dandelion (like Red Rib), which is actually a chicory. 

Cress--Particularly Wrinkled Crinkled Crumpled, a Frank Morton variety with a wonderful herbal-spice flavor and super dainty leaves

Garlic Chives--Chives and garlic in one--brilliant!

Lovage--The tough-as-nails alternative to celery--perennial and one of the first things to come up in spring. Strong celery flavor works well in soups and stirfries. Dry in season to enjoy it year-round!

Kale--Spring boasts exceptionally sweet and tender kale leaves on overwintered plants, as well as broccoli-like florets and yummy edible flowers

Mache--If a peanut and a green had a baby, mache would be it. Super winter-hardy and nutty as all get out!

Mizspoona--A superb cross between Tatsoi and Mizuna, with thick, mild, sweet leaves; excellent raw and cooked.

Mustard Greens--Spicy like wasabi. Make excellent addition to salad mixes, especially when paired with a sweet dressing. Also works well as a sushi wrap.

Parsley--Excellent in vinaigrettes and to brighten starchy dishes.

Purple Orach a.k.a. Mountain Spinach--Thick, deep purple leaves have a mildly salty taste and are exceptional in salad mixes as well as cooked like spinach.

Sorrel--Perennial. Lemony flavor, excellent in potato-leek soup. Makes good cocktails.

Spinach--At its sweetest in the spring. Wonderful raw or cooked.

Swiss Chard--rainbow stems on huge, nutrient-packed leaves that don't bolt all summer!

Tarragon--Perennial. Absolutely divine in egg scrambles.